TARA SA ILOILO
Eats Iloilo
Ever wondered how a city can embrace you with its culinary arms? Iloilo, also known as the City of Love, does it with a warm smile and a feast that tells tales of tradition and rich heritage.
Nestled in the heart of the Philippines, Iloilo has earned its moniker not just for its romantic ambiance but for the warm smiles and open arms of the hospitable Ilonggos. These same people hold dear the preservation of their culture, traditions, and, notably, their culinary heritage.
Iloilo’s love for its culinary legacy has garnered it the prestigious title of one of UNESCO’s Creative Cities of Gastronomy in November 2023. This recognition marks Iloilo as the first City of Gastronomy in the Philippines, proudly placing Ilonggo cuisine on the global culinary map alongside other international gastronomic giants.
Together with our Ilonggo friends, who were very much eager to take us on a food trip, we drove around and into Iloilo’s treasured kitchens, satiating our palates and filling our stomachs with local favorites and culinary discoveries along the way.
Luna’s famous Native Chicken Arroz Caldo
FOR THE EARLY RISERS
Picture yourself waking up to the aroma of decades-old tradition at LUNA’S ARROZCALDOHAN. This 24/7 spot in General Luna Street has been dishing out comfort in the form of their Native Chicken Arroz Caldo since 1967, becoming a timeless institution in Ilonggo gastronomy. Besides their famous arroz caldo, they also serve other Pinoy meals like silogs, and other Ilonggo favorites like batchoy and lomi.
MARKET MARVELS AT LA PAZ
MARKET MARVELS AT LA PAZ
If you’re ready to dive into Iloilo’s food culture, start at the La Paz Public Market. This market emerges as a bustling hub where locals and visitors come together to share in an abundance of flavors, fresh produce, and culinary treasures.
As soon as you step foot on the market, you’ll find two hallways filled with batchoy eateries, including the famous Netong’s Original Special La Paz Batchoy.
Inside La Paz Market
Netong’s famous La Paz Batchoy
Now let’s talk coffee, perfect after that hearty arroz caldo from Luna’s. Amidst the lively cultural tapestry of La Paz Public Market, MADGE COFFEE HOUSE stands as a gem that has awakened locals’ mornings for years. We went there for a quick coffee run but found ourselves getting immersed in the stories of locals getting their Madge daily coffee fix.
Adding to the charm, every local and regular customer at Madge has a personalized mug. When patrons arrive, a simple greeting is all it takes for the owners to prepare their favorite brew, served in their distinctive mug.
Our visit to Madge Coffee House at 10am defied conventional peak hours, yet the space was alive with activity. We had the pleasure of conversing with Sir Peter Dela Cruz, the third-generation custodian of Madge Coffee’s legacy. He told us the story of how his grandfather established the shop in 1940 selling halo-halo. However, fueled by his grandfather’s passion for coffee, the focus shifted, and the rest is history.
Madge’s commitment to authenticity shines through as they continue to use local Iloilo coffee, steering clear of machine-operated processes. From the humble beginnings of a kettle and flannel coffee filters, the process remains raw, native, and manually prepared, blending seamlessly with local ingredients. It wasn’t until the 2000s that Madge introduced variations like the iced version, expanding their offerings while staying true to their roots.
After our coffee stop, we went further into the market to buy Ilonggo delicacies for pasalubong.
Puto may Gata, 3 for 50 pesos only
But-ong for 10 pesos only
BAYE-BAYE BREAK
Mid-morning brings the enchanting Baye-Baye stops, where sugary treats vanish before lunchtime. Baye-baye, a cherished traditional Ilonggo dessert, is a harmonious blend of grated young coconut, corn patties, or pounded young rice flakes (pinipig). The intricate process begins with toasting the pinipig until golden brown. It is then pounded into delicate flakes, and combined with coconut water, sugar, and freshly grated young coconut. We found several baye-baye stops in Pavia, but they close before lunch. If you want to try it, better go early.
LUNCH AT JEARA’S TINU-OM RESTAURANT
LUNCH AT JEARA’S TINU-OM RESTAURANT
Our culinary exploration uncovered a hidden gem near the airport – Jeara’s Tinu-om. Established in 2015, named after the owner’s daughter, Jeara’s serves Tinu-om, a native dish of Cabatuanons. “Tinu-om” in the native language translates to “balot”. Crafted with expertise, this delicacy features native chicken infused with a medley of flavors from onions, tomatoes, ginger, salt, and the aromatic essence of lemongrass (tanglad). Jeara’s adds their own secret ingredient, further elevating the dish.
Jeara’s Tinu-om
AFTERNOON TSOKOLATE AND
PASALUBONG DELIGHT
As the sun begins to mellow over Iloilo, our culinary adventure takes a delightful turn to embrace the rich flavors of afternoon tsokolate and gather a treasure trove of pasalubong.
Our first stop, Balay Tablea in Cabatuan. Ms. Catherine Taleon, brimming with pride, narrated the humble origins of this authentic Cabatuan chocolate, which they call Tan Tono Tablea. Intrigued by the process, we were treated to a demonstration, witnessing firsthand the intricate artistry involved. Of course, we couldn’t resist taking a bit of this Ilonggo craftsmanship home with us.
Along the way, the journey became a pasalubong expedition. We accumulated a car-ful of Ilonggo delicacies, each one promising a bite-sized piece of Iloilo’s culinary heritage.
Unexpected new favorite: Pulot!
Red Velvet Cake from Mrs. Wharton’s
Original Cream Horn
SUNSET SPREAD
As the day gracefully transitions into the evening in Iloilo, our food trip takes a delectable turn towards Beige Eatery. This carinderia, revered among locals, beckons with an array of tantalizing dishes. Arriving close to 5pm, we joined the eager patrons, patiently waiting for a table. The sight of pork, chicken, and fish dishes adorning the front display rack, accompanied by the aroma of steamed talaba, set the stage for a delightful dining experience. Pro tip: The 2nd-floor window seats offer a front-row view to Iloilo’s breathtaking sunset.
Our table transformed into a canvas of flavors as we indulged in a feast of grilled squid, succulent oysters, tortang talong (eggplant), crisp ensalada, and the iconic chicken inasal. Each dish, a masterpiece of Ilonggo culinary artistry, showcased the rich tapestry of local ingredients and time-honored cooking techniques.
Post-feast, a few steps away, a row of street food stalls awaited. Observing the locals, we discovered a cherished ritual – after one grabs their food and drink, they then stroll to the port area. With friends in tow, they relish the sunset or the tranquil sea at night, creating a vibrant tapestry of Ilonggo life.
To visit Iloilo is not just to explore its beaches and ancestral houses; it’s an invitation to immerse yourself in the diverse and flavorful tapestry that defines this remarkable city and people. Ready your taste buds, for in Iloilo, every twist, turn, and flavor promises a culinary adventure. Given more time, we’d allot more days to eagerly delve into the myriad dishes awaiting us at every corner.
Post-feast, a few steps away, a row of street food stalls awaited. Observing the locals, we discovered a cherished ritual – after one grabs their food and drink, they then stroll to the port area. With friends in tow, they relish the sunset or the tranquil sea at night, creating a vibrant tapestry of Ilonggo life.
To visit Iloilo is not just to explore its beaches and ancestral houses; it’s an invitation to immerse yourself in the diverse and flavorful tapestry that defines this remarkable city and people. Ready your taste buds, for in Iloilo, every twist, turn, and flavor promises a culinary adventure. Given more time, we’d allot more days to eagerly delve into the myriad dishes awaiting us at every corner.
With its spacious interior, we gleefully filled the Mitsubishi Xpander with Ilonggo treats, its spacious design not only made room for the pasalubongs but also for our Ilonggo friends. The Mitsubishi Xpander became an indispensable companion on our Iloilo food tour, ensuring our culinary discoveries extended beyond the plate.
With its spacious interior, we gleefully filled the Mitsubishi Xpander with Ilonggo treats, its spacious design not only made room for the pasalubongs but also for our Ilonggo friends. The Mitsubishi Xpander became an indispensable companion on our Iloilo food tour, ensuring our culinary discoveries extended beyond the plate.
