TARA SA NORTH CEBU:
KAKANIN HUNT
If the way to one’s heart is through the tummy, then consider this trip our love letter to all the foodies out there. In Cebu, there’s a feast to be found wherever you look. Every conversation about Cebuano cuisine includes classics like lechon of Talisay and Carcar. Recent media coverage has featured the seafood delights of Pasil’s larang and Cordova’s bakasi. The Chinese influence in Cebuano cuisine is evident in the presence of ngohiong and steamed rice. Tuslob Buwa, a bubbling wok of pig brain with spices, is easily one of the most exotic dips out there. Most of these dishes go best with Pusô, the famous palm leaf-wrapped hanging rice of Cebu.
Didang’s signature stamp
What about dessert? In the Philippines, we usually eat kakanin, or rice cakes, for dessert. But did you know that in Cebu, almost every town has its signature kakanin? So, after the last Sinulog Festival, we took a road trip up north and drove town to town to taste their delectable and famous kakanin. From cake-like to crunchy, let us show you how to eat your way through Northern Cebu.
MANDAUE’S MASAREAL AND TAGAKTAK
From afar, you would think MASAREAL is a block of white chocolate. Upon closer inspection, however, you realize this is something else entirely. So, what goes into masareal? Exact recipes may vary, but masareal is basically boiled ground peanuts that are mixed with sugar.
While there are a handful of masareal makers in Mandaue, Didang’s is one of the oldest and most well-known. In 1912, Juliana “Didang” Suico developed the same family recipe that is still used in production four generations later. We visited their headquarters, and it was so satisfying to see the transformation from raw ingredients to the final product wrapped in its signature white paper. Lucky for everyone with masareal cravings, you can get a taste of Didang’s elsewhere, such as local supermarkets and food souvenir centers like Garbo sa Mandaue.
From afar, you would think MASAREAL is a block of white chocolate. Upon closer inspection, however, you realize this is something else entirely. So, what goes into masareal? Exact recipes may vary, but masareal is basically boiled ground peanuts that are mixed with sugar.
Didang’s headquarters in Mandaue, Cebu
While there are a handful of masareal makers in Mandaue, Didang’s is one of the oldest and most well-known. In 1912, Juliana “Didang” Suico developed the same family recipe that is still used in production four generations later. We visited their headquarters, and it was so satisfying to see the transformation from raw ingredients to the final product wrapped in its signature white paper. Lucky for everyone with masareal cravings, you can get a taste of Didang’s elsewhere, such as local supermarkets and food souvenir centers like Garbo sa Mandaue.
Didang’s headquarters in Mandaue, Cebu
Mandaue’s tagaktak
Pasalubong seller
at Garbo sa Mandaue
Mandaue’s tagaktak
Pasalubong seller
at Garbo sa Mandaue
Something that is more of a rarity is TAGAKTAK. At a glance, tagaktak looks like pancit, but is actually a sweet fritter. Like the Southern Mindanao delicacy of lokot-lokot, tagaktak uses a batter of glutinous rice, coconut milk, eggs, water, and sugar. But unlike the lokot-lokot, tagaktak is triangular. Its “noodles” are formed using a coconut shell strainer called “pangulayan”. This helps control the batter as it slowly drips out of the little holes in a crisscross pattern. It is then fried until golden brown and set aside to cool. Expect little pieces to break apart with every crunch-packed bite of tagaktak! You can’t say the name didn’t warn you—after all, tagaktak is derived from the Cebuano word for “to fall or drop”, which is “tagak”.
LILOAN’S MASI
MASI is a sticky, bite-sized treat with a glutinous rice flour exterior and ground peanut filling. The round shape and chewy texture might remind you of the Japanese mochi. Masi comes in shades of white or purple. Driving past Liloan during the day, there will always be a street vendor or stall selling freshly made masi. As it has a pretty short shelf life, it’s important to consume masi within a few hours after buying. It wasn’t a problem for us at all, we could have easily finished an entire bilao full of masi.
Liloan’s masi
Each piece sells for only 5 pesos each
THE CULINARY TAPESTRY OF CATMON:
BINGKA AND BUBDUD KABOG
Mandaue and Liloan are both locales that are part of the Metro Cebu urban center. For our next food stop, we ventured beyond the city limits. The coastal municipality of Catmon boasts charms with its cliffside resorts that line the winding roads.
Bibingka, a traditional baked rice cake and a merienda mainstay for Filipinos. In Catmon, you can enjoy a steaming BINGKA, as they call it, right by the highway. We were greeted by the sight of smoke emanating from stalls that prepare bingka on the spot. Don’t miss the Bingkahan sa Catmon on your next Cebu trip!
Catmon’s budbod kabog
Catmon is also the home of the BUDBUD KABOG. Budbud is more commonly known as suman elsewhere in the Philippines, but what makes Catmon’s version unique is in the ingredients: millet, an ancient grain endemic to the area. Kabog has two animals associated with its history and future. “Kabog” is a local term for bat, which ties up with the millet’s alleged origin story in a cave inhabited by bats. Its discovery by a local farmer was apparently a happy accident.
Catmon Deli Vendors Association
Our tour took us to the idyllic community kitchen of the Catmon Deli Vendors Association. There, we could see kabog growing alongside other crops. Slow food advocate Rosaflor “Butche” Estenzo showed us around and shared that kabog faces no biological threats in the form of blight. However, birds are the primary pests despite playing a role in its propagation. It’s certainly a tough balancing act for those involved in the cultivation of this underrated heritage crop. Despite the challenges, Kabog’s taste and health benefits make it worth the effort.
A DELICIOUS FINALE IN BOGO: PINTOS
Driving past gently rolling hills, we arrived at the developed city of Bogo. At this point, our food trip has brought us further north, around a hundred kilometers away from Cebu City. Bogo traces its history as a settlement since colonial times. Its status as a center of trade is partially due to its proximity to neighboring islands like Masbate and Leyte including a direct ferry connection to Sorsogon. If the previous entries are any indication, Cebu goes beyond rice-based kakanin.
While most Filipinos would be familiar with the milky scrambled ice affair that is mais con yelo, Bogo’s PINTOS is a bit more under the radar. Cornmeal in other provinces is more familiar as feed for livestock, but corn as carb and rice alternative is still present in a lot of Cebuano dining tables. One can easily find bugas mais in markets and small eateries.
Corn that has been harvested in the area around Bogo is finely ground, and added into it is a mixture that usually contains milk, butter, or sugar. It is then shaped into a wide log-like form, wrapped in corn husk, and steamed. Pintos resembles Bukidnon’s binaki and Mexico’s tamales, which is a testament to the people-pleasing, filling qualities of the delicacy.
It can be said that food is what elevates an average vacation into an amazing one. The best part about all our recommendations? They’re all very affordable. Our list is certainly just a sampler of sweet treats in Cebu. In other corners of the province, there’s still a whole lot more to discover and devour. Making an itinerary out of must-eats is both fun and easy, so we’re here to manifest delicious adventures coming your way!
It was a delectable adventure through the picturesque landscapes of North Cebu with the smooth and steady Montero Sport. As we traverse winding roads and charming towns, we uncover the province’s sweetest culinary treasures, immersing ourselves in the vibrant flavors and rich heritage of this culinary haven.
It was a delectable adventure through the picturesque landscapes of North Cebu with the smooth and steady Montero Sport. As we traverse winding roads and charming towns, we uncover the province’s sweetest culinary treasures, immersing ourselves in the vibrant flavors and rich heritage of this culinary haven.
