TARA SA PAMPANGA
BEAUTY IN DESTRUCTION
At the heart of Central Luzon is Pampanga, a province famous for its delicious sisig and buro. But beyond the delectable dishes that define Pampanga, there are tales etched in its landscapes— stories told by volcanic chaos, wildfire, and infestation, leaving marks that we can still see today. These natural disasters affected not only its geography but also how people live, which made our adventure in Pampanga a mix of exploring both the aftermath of these disasters and the beautiful surprises we found.
SUNKEN SPANISH-INSPIRED
CHURCH OF BACOLOR
It was as if we time-traveled back to the Spanish era when we visited San Guillermo Church in the town of Bacolor. Not only was it a remnant of our colonial past with its baroque architecture and remarkable retablos, but also a testament to the unwavering faith of its parishioners. Originally built in the 16th century, the church faced the wrath of Mt. Pinatubo’s 1991 eruption, burying it under 20 feet of lahar.
Maria Divina Serrano
“Ma, labas ka tingnan mo ang ulap ang ganda.” (Mom, look at the clouds, it’s so beautiful.) These are the words said by Ate Divine, a church volunteer, when she was barely 10 years old. As she vividly recalled, she was taking a shower when she heard panicked screams from the outside. When she went out, she saw the pyroclastic cloud of Mt. Pinatubo, and she was astounded by its beauty. She couldn’t have known then that a disaster would follow from that beautiful sight. Then the rest was history. Ate Divine and her family evacuated, just like everyone else, and it took them years to relocate back to their hometown. When they returned, their houses, and their church were now buried, leaving only the 2nd floor to hold all activities.
It was as if we time-traveled back to the Spanish era when we visited San Guillermo Church in the town of Bacolor. Not only was it a remnant of our colonial past with its baroque architecture and remarkable retablos, but also a testament to the unwavering faith of its parishioners. Originally built in the 16th century, the church faced the wrath of Mt. Pinatubo’s 1991 eruption, burying it under 20 feet of lahar.
Maria Divina Serrano
“Ma, labas ka tingnan mo ang ulap ang ganda.” (Mom, look at the clouds, it’s so beautiful.) These are the words said by Ate Divine, a church volunteer, when she was barely 10 years old. As she vividly recalled, she was taking a shower when she heard panicked screams from the outside. When she went out, she saw the pyroclastic cloud of Mt. Pinatubo, and she was astounded by its beauty. She couldn’t have known then that a disaster would follow from that beautiful sight. Then the rest was history. Ate Divine and her family evacuated, just like everyone else, and it took them years to relocate back to their hometown. When they returned, their houses, and their church were now buried, leaving only the 2nd floor to hold all activities.
Despite the devastation, the parishioners returned, and San Guillermo Church now stands with a different kind of beauty, deepened by history and the resilient spirit of its people. A wing of the church was then designated as a museum, preserving artifacts as a poignant reminder of the cataclysmic events of 1991. Ate Divine, now in her 40s, served the church as an usher to the museum and church events like the La Naval Festival, which coincided with our visit.
THE SCENIC TUTULARI AVATAR GORGE
The next day, traveling to the foothills near Mount Pinatubo, we ventured into the ancestral domain of an Aeta Community in the village of Inararo, Porac. Here, we met our guides, led by Tatay Bato, to experience a trek into the Tutulari Avatar Gorge, which was aptly named by Tatay Bato because it strongly resembles the landscape of the famous film.
The Tutulari Avatar Gorge is a captivating 500-meter scenic trail hidden deep within the lahar area. The drive going there is very bumpy, and you can only reach it by riding a capable off-road vehicle.
According to Tatay Bato, the gorge hasn’t been explored yet even before the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo. It was only a few years ago that they opened the area to tourists, when one visitor asked Tatay Bato if they have an area that’s yet to be explored. So they trekked to the gorge, and found a beautiful winding gap between two rock formations, curved and smoothed by time and water flow. Just like San Guillermo Church, the Gorge used to stand taller before the lahar buried parts of it.
After that discovery, Tatay Bato and the whole Aeta community has since made a promise to maintain the gorge and keep it safe. He led us through the path, highlighting its rocks and winding landscape, telling us all about its history, and showing us the perfect spots for a photograph. We did take a few, and we felt like we’re in a Hollywood film.
The Aetas now share this sacred place with adventurers through eco-tourism.
Tatay Bato
PUNING HOT SPRINGS & RESTAURANT:
THRILLS AND TRANQUILITY
After our morning visit to the Tutulari Avatar Gorge, we drove to the other side of Brgy. Inararo to enjoy Puning Hot Springs, which offers a unique blend of adventure and relaxation through its three stations. This visit took most of our time, since it takes almost 20 minutes each way to drive to each station. The itinerary included a dip in the hot spring pools (Station 3), a volcanic mud spa (Station 2), and finally a scrumptious lunch buffet (Station 1). But the real exciting part for our team was getting there. Accessible via a thrilling 4×4 ride across the Sacobia River, the hot springs awaited at station 3, which we first visited.
PUNING HOT SPRINGS & RESTAURANT:
THRILLS AND TRANQUILITY
After our morning visit to the Tutulari Avatar Gorge, we drove to the other side of Brgy. Inararo to enjoy Puning Hot Springs, which offers a unique blend of adventure and relaxation through its three stations. This visit took most of our time, since it takes almost 20 minutes each way to drive to each station. The itinerary included a dip in the hot spring pools (Station 3), a volcanic mud spa (Station 2), and finally a scrumptious lunch buffet (Station 1). But the real exciting part for our team was getting there. Accessible via a thrilling 4×4 ride across the Sacobia River, the hot springs awaited at station 3, which we first visited.
We had a chat with some Aeta resort attendants, who shared the fascinating discovery of the springs. The story went that after the Pinatubo eruption, when times were hard and food was scarce, his ancestors were hunting for a wild boar and the chase led them to this spring, where the water flows hot. After the discovery, it had since been developed into a resort, adding more therapeutic pools along the way, situated deep in the lahar-sculpted wilderness.
After taking a relaxing dip in the pools, we drove to Station 2, where an intriguing spa experience awaited. Guided into a pavilion atop a large brick oven, Aeta attendants skillfully buried our bodies with heated volcanic sand before massaging us with the soles of their feet. As a final touch, attendants applied a special mud pack derived from refined volcanic ash to our skin and face, cleansing pores and relaxing the skin, unveiling a revitalized glow upon rinsing. To culminate the experience, a feast awaited at Station 3, leaving every adventurer fulfilled and satisfied.
“Puning” translated to “mother” in the Aeta dialect of Mag-antsi (mag-anchi), and it aptly embodied the experience of comfort and care comparable to a mother’s nurturing grace.
We had a chat with some Aeta resort attendants, who shared the fascinating discovery of the springs. The story went that after the Pinatubo eruption, when times were hard and food was scarce, his ancestors were hunting for a wild boar and the chase led them to this spring, where the water flows hot. After the discovery, it had since been developed into a resort, adding more therapeutic pools along the way, situated deep in the lahar-sculpted wilderness.
After taking a relaxing dip in the pools, we drove to Station 2, where an intriguing spa experience awaited. Guided into a pavilion atop a large brick oven, Aeta attendants skillfully buried our bodies with heated volcanic sand before massaging us with the soles of their feet. As a final touch, attendants applied a special mud pack derived from refined volcanic ash to our skin and face, cleansing pores and relaxing the skin, unveiling a revitalized glow upon rinsing. To culminate the experience, a feast awaited at Station 3, leaving every adventurer fulfilled and satisfied.
“Puning” translated to “mother” in the Aeta dialect of Mag-antsi (mag-anchi), and it aptly embodied the experience of comfort and care comparable to a mother’s nurturing grace.
Station 2: Puning Hot Spring Spa using volcanic sand and mud
Station 1: Puning Hot Spring & Restaurant
Mancito’s love for “Ilog Camalig,” meaning a storehouse of abundance, was a testament to the transformative power of one man’s dedication.
A MAN’S LOVE FOR ILOG CAMALIG
A quick detour took us to Ilog Camalig situated in Barangay Pio, a small town in Porac, to celebrate the sunset and chill with our friends. Here, we bumped into Kuya Mancito, known as the man who fought to save a river he loved. Kuya Mancito worked tirelessly to restore the once-degraded riverbanks filled with trash and waste. For many years, people called him crazy, but slowly the community became inspired and lent him a helping hand. Now, the river thrived, the trash was gone, pristine flowing water was restored, and fish had returned within its banks. The once-neglected site was transformed into camping grounds, attracting frequent visits from riders and travelers seeking to uncover a hidden gem along the off-the-beaten path of their journey.
A MAN’S LOVE FOR ILOG CAMALIG
A quick detour took us to Ilog Camalig situated in Barangay Pio, a small town in Porac, to celebrate the sunset and chill with our friends. Here, we bumped into Kuya Mancito, known as the man who fought to save a river he loved. Kuya Mancito worked tirelessly to restore the once-degraded riverbanks filled with trash and waste. For many years, people called him crazy, but slowly the community became inspired and lent him a helping hand. Now, the river thrived, the trash was gone, pristine flowing water was restored, and fish had returned within its banks. The once-neglected site was transformed into camping grounds, attracting frequent visits from riders and travelers seeking to uncover a hidden gem along the off-the-beaten path of their journey.
Mancito’s love for “Ilog Camalig,” meaning a storehouse of abundance, was a testament to the transformative power of one man’s dedication.
BALE BATU: BEAUTIFUL DREAMS
CARVED IN STONE
Apo Susing’s wife and son
It took 40 years of continuous labor until Apo Susing passed away in 2007, leaving his envisioned house unfinished. Alejandro and his mother, Teresita, promised to continue and complete what Apo Susing started.
Teresita said that Bale Batu held her memories of the great man her husband was, while Alejandro believed it was where his father’s dreams resided and remained alive.
On to our 3rd day, and we took a little detour to the foothills of Mt. Arayat to visit a stone house called Bale Batu. Built by Jesus Padilla, known as Apo Susing, in the 1970s, this structure oddly resembled Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.
Apo Susing’s son, Alejandro, shared that this was only coincidental; its main purpose was to create a house to protect their family from the wildfires during that time. The design was improvised, inspired by Ernie Baron, a popular science personality back in the day who proposed that pyramidic structures held healing powers. The Khmer-inspired details were just by chance, as reiterated by Teresita, the wife of Susing. She told us that her husband was a simple farmer who was neither schooled in architecture or engineering; he just followed his imagination and learned to build along the way.
On to our 3rd day, and we took a little detour to the foothills of Mt. Arayat to visit a stone house called Bale Batu. Built by Jesus Padilla, known as Apo Susing, in the 1970s, this structure oddly resembled Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.
Apo Susing’s son, Alejandro, shared that this was only coincidental; its main purpose was to create a house to protect their family from the wildfires during that time. The design was improvised, inspired by Ernie Baron, a popular science personality back in the day who proposed that pyramidic structures held healing powers. The Khmer-inspired details were just by chance, as reiterated by Teresita, the wife of Susing. She told us that her husband was a simple farmer who was neither schooled in architecture or engineering; he just followed his imagination and learned to build along the way.
Apo Susing’s wife and son
It took 40 years of continuous labor until Apo Susing passed away in 2007, leaving his envisioned house unfinished. Alejandro and his mother, Teresita, promised to continue and complete what Apo Susing started.
Teresita said that Bale Batu held her memories of the great man her husband was, while Alejandro believed it was where his father’s dreams resided and remained alive.
From destruction, beauty emerged through the love, devotion, and persistence of its inhabitants. These are just some of Pampanga’s hidden wonders, where nature and humanity danced in harmony. We’re sure there’s more to explore and uncover, more hidden beauty that rose from the embrace of Mother Nature, not just in Pampanga but in the Philippines.
Traversing Pampanga’s varied terrains was a delight thanks to Mitsubishi Xpander Cross. Beyond its robust performance, the journey unfolded the beauty shaped by nature’s upheavals, proving that even in the aftermath of destruction, the province exuded a unique charm waiting to be discovered.
Traversing Pampanga’s varied terrains was a delight thanks to Mitsubishi Xpander Cross. Beyond its robust performance, the journey unfolded the beauty shaped by nature’s upheavals, proving that even in the aftermath of destruction, the province exuded a unique charm waiting to be discovered.
